What to Do When Your Garage Door Won't Close

1 Photo Eye Sensors Are Misaligned

Symptoms: Door starts closing then reverses, opener lights flash 10 times, or door simply won't close while open works fine.

This is by far the most common cause. The photo eye sensors are small electronic eyes mounted near the floor on each side of the door. They send an invisible beam across the door opening. If anything breaks the beam — or the sensors are misaligned — the door won't close as a safety feature.

What to check:

• Are both sensor lights solid (not flashing)? On most brands, you should see one green and one orange/red light.
• Is anything blocking the beam? (Tools, boxes, leaves, spider webs)
• Are the sensors pointing directly at each other?
• Are the lenses dirty or covered in dust?

Quick fix: Clean both lenses with a dry cloth. Gently adjust each sensor until both lights are solid. If you see flashing lights, the sensors aren't aligned.

2 Force Limit Settings Are Off

Symptoms: Door reverses partway through closing without hitting anything.

Every garage door opener has force settings — how much resistance it allows before reversing as a safety feature. If the force is set too sensitive, the opener thinks it's hitting something even when it isn't. This often happens when:

• Door has gotten heavier (rust, ice, water in panels)
• Tracks need lubrication (more friction)
• Springs are weakening (door is harder to lift)
• Cold weather is making everything stiffer

Quick check: Pull the red emergency release cord and manually lift the door. Does it feel heavier than usual? If yes, the door has a balance problem requiring professional service. If no, force settings may need adjustment.

When to call a pro: Force adjustment varies by brand and model. While some homeowners can do this themselves, incorrectly adjusted force settings can be dangerous. We recommend professional adjustment.

3 Travel Limits Need Adjustment

Symptoms: Door closes but then reverses immediately when it touches the floor, or door stops 6 inches from the floor.

The opener is programmed to know how far the door should travel. If those limits drift over time, the door may stop short or hit the floor too hard and reverse.

What it looks like:

• Door stops with a gap between bottom and floor
• Door touches floor and immediately reverses
• Door starts to close but stops at the same wrong point each time

Solution: Most opener brands have small adjustment dials or buttons for "down limit" and "force." Refer to your opener's manual — instructions vary significantly by brand. If you can't find the manual, look up the brand and model online for instructions.

4 Track Obstruction or Damage

Symptoms: Door closes partway, then stops or reverses. May happen at the same spot every time.

Garage doors run on tracks. Anything in the track — debris, dust buildup, dents, or bent sections — can prevent smooth operation.

What to check:

• Look down both tracks with a flashlight
• Check for stones, leaves, or debris
• Look for dents or bent sections
• Check that tracks are vertical (not leaning in or out)
• Verify tracks are securely mounted

Quick fix: Sweep or vacuum out debris. For minor dents, a rubber mallet can sometimes restore shape. Bent track sections require professional repair — they affect the door's path and can cause it to come off the rails.

5 Broken Spring or Cable

Symptoms: Door felt fine, then suddenly won't close at all, or makes a loud bang and stops working. Door feels extremely heavy when manually lifted.

If a spring or cable failed, the opener can sense the door isn't operating normally and refuse to close it (correctly, since closing could cause more damage).

What to check:

• Look at the torsion spring above the door — is there a visible gap or break?
• Are the cables intact, or hanging loose?
• Does the door feel much heavier than usual?
• Is the door hanging crookedly?

6 Disconnected Trolley or Broken Drive

Symptoms: Opener motor runs but door doesn't move at all, or the chain/belt is loose.

The trolley is the part that connects the opener to the door. If you accidentally pulled the emergency release cord, the trolley is disconnected. If the chain or belt has broken, the trolley can't pull the door.

What to check:

• Was the red emergency release cord pulled? (Pull it back to reconnect)
• Look at the rail — is the trolley moving when opener runs?
• Is the chain or belt visible and intact?
• Is there a broken or disconnected piece on the rail?

Quick fix for disconnected trolley: Pull the emergency release cord toward the door (not away). The trolley should reconnect with a click. Then try closing the door normally.

7 Lock Switch Engaged or Remote Issue

Symptoms: Wall button doesn't work but you remember pressing the "Lock" button. Or, remote works but wall button doesn't (or vice versa).

Most modern wall control panels have a "Lock" or "Vacation" mode that disables remote operation. It's easy to bump accidentally.

What to check:

• Look at the wall control — any lights or "Lock" indicator on?
• Try pressing "Lock" again to toggle off
• If the remote stopped working — try replacing the battery
• If the wall button stopped working — there may be a wiring issue